A half-hearted recovery

Jun 23, 2021

The terrace of the Cali Sisters restaurant in Paris 2nd © DR

Bars and restaurants have reopened. If there are crowds on the terraces at the slightest ray of sunshine, it is more for drinks and snacks than for meals. And the Euro football tournament only accentuates the phenomenon.

It’s picking up, but slowly. Of course, the French are delighted to return to cafés, brasseries and restaurants. They want to meet up, relax and party. And with the slightest ray of sunshine, the terraces are full. But the recovery is a little more sluggish for the establishments without outside areas and the Parisian hotels, still obliged to multiply the attractive offers, for lack of tourists and foreign business customers. A trend that the figures confirm. According to the bank card group, on Wednesday 19 May 2021, traditional restaurants recorded a 20% drop in value, compared to the same period in 2019. So there is still some way to go. And it is not easy. Another finding is that consumers prefer beers, plates of chips, tapas or other boards to share, to the detriment of a classic menu. In other words, finger food, street food and aperitifs are all the rage at the beginning of summer. Consumers are looking for conviviality, “easy to eat” and above all a price-quality ratio that defies all competition. Hence the success of the Maison Plisson hot dog in the Tuileries, the tacos of the Mexican cantina El Vecino, on the ground floor of the 1K hotel on the edge of the Marais, or the sharing cuisine between friends at Cali Sisters, a stone’s throw from the Bourse.

El Vecino taqueria on the ground floor of the 1K hotel or in click and collect at the office as here at Talent Developer! © Harupimedia

Click & collect has not disappeared

What about “click & collect”? It has not disappeared, according to Zenchef. The proof: 42% of the clients of this reservation platform, who had set up the take-away service during the lock-up periods, continue to offer it to consumers. The reason for this phenomenon is that restaurant owners are now used to “click & collect” and it is a way of generating additional, not negligible, income. Moreover, during the Euro football tournament, take-away sales and deliveries of pizzas and burgers are booming. As for the establishments, those that broadcast the matches on a giant screen multiply the restocking of beer and potatoes, because pints and cones of fries – especially if they are “homemade” – are “number one” in sales.
During the Euro football tournament, takeaway sales and pizza deliveries are booming © Sortir à Paris
“Finger food, street food and aperitifs are all the rage at the start of summer © T.D
Restocking of beer at el Vecino © DR

Starred restaurants adapt…

The current recovery is also pushing gastronomic addresses to adapt, or even change their approach. For example, Epicure, chef Eric Frechon‘s three-starred restaurant at the Bristol, will only open in October. In the meantime, you can enjoy burgers, salads or pies at Café Antonia or Jardin français, two other restaurants in the Parisian palace. The same gradual reopening is taking place at Yoann Conte, on the banks of Lake Annecy. The starred restaurant will be back in business on 8 July. In the meantime, the menu of his “Côté Jardin” offers tuna tartar or other carpaccio at lunchtime, crêpes and sorbets at tea time, pizzas and plates of cold meats to be shared at the aperitif. A clever way to broaden and rejuvenate the clientele. In addition, the chef is preparing to launch a catering service: a chic version of “click & collect”.

Article written by Anne Eveillard for Talent Developer